At an average of 33 miles, 9000 plus feet elevation gain, up to 12 4000 footers in one go, and ranked by Backpacker magazine as the second hardest day hike in America, I headed for New Hampshire’s Pemigewasset Wilderness the week before Labor Day on what is famously called the “Pemi Loop.” I booked two Appalachian Mountain Club huts well in advance (hey, I’m all for paying for the cool AMC Croo to cook and sing to me!) and crossed my fingers that Karma would take care of the weather for this adventure of a lifetime.
Karma pulled through like never before.
Maybe it was the thru hikers I picked up along 93 and dropped off in Lincoln at a local outfitter the night before my trek. We jammed out to Phish and I told them to keep the gas money they offered for themselves for a well deserved beer at the local burger joint. They said Karma and the hiking gods were sure to smile upon us as they, too, would be crossing the ridge in the morning. Whatever it was…it worked.
Day One: Lincoln Woods to Greenleaf Hut—11.7 miles
I didn’t want to get up. It was still raining as I pulled the covers up over my head in my cheap, cozy hotel bed. I decided to take my time getting ready (with the intention of being at the trailhead by sunrise). At the trailhead, I signed in as an overnight hiker and started my journey. Well…until I remembered that I had left my bear spray on the hood of my car. So I turned around, snagged it, and clipped it to my pack. And then I was off. For real this time.
The initial stretch of Lincoln Woods was flat and spooky in the early hours of the morning. Once I reached the Osseo trail, it was 4 miles of up. Steady, moderate, monotonous, rocky, and rock stair/wooden ladder-laden-up. It’s honestly a gentle beast with one heck of a premonition of what is to come for the remainder of this voyage—rocks. Lots and lots of rocks.
I was overjoyed to reach the summit of Flume. I was denied this summit a few years ago as there were thunderstorms moving in as I crested Liberty (with the intention of snagging Flume that day). Today was about redemption and moving forward with my goal of tagging each and every single 4000 footer in New England. As I tagged this summit and continued on my journey up and over Liberty and Little Haystack, I smiled. The rest of today (5000 footers Lincoln and Lafayette) was smooth sailing as I had just completed the hardest stretch—gaining 3100 feet of elevation in one go—and I made sure to take my time to stop and enjoy the view as I traversed the infamous Franconia Ridge. It was all downhill from here…at least until Greenleaf Hut and the ascent of Lafayette for the second time in less than 24 hours the next morning…
Day Two: Greenleaf Hut to Galehead Hut—8.5 miles
After a delicious breakfast at Greenleaf Hut of oatmeal with chocolate chips, eggs, sausage, cornbread, and coffee, it was time to climb an extra 1000 feet to Lafayette’s summit, where I would connect to the Garfield Ridge Trail for today’s short in mileage (but incredibly long with ups and downs) adventure. There were beautiful blue skies as I descended Lafayette to the col that would take me to Garfield’s summit. This was quite the pleasant ridge walk, scattered with rocks and an exciting boulder scramble or two. Once the descent of Garfield begins, you’ll have to climb down a portion of wet rocks, as a stream flows down the trail here. Use caution—the rocks can get quite slippery. This is also when I recalled the warnings that even though the Garfield Ridge Trail looks pretty benign on paper, don’t let that fool you. Those little speed bumps on paper are actually rock-laden up and down and up and down and up and down periods of climbing…and just when you think you’re done and leveling out…you go up and down some more! I didn’t realize there were that many rocks in New Hampshire! Along the way, be sure to stop at the Garfield Campsite for water! If you’re not staying at the huts, this is also an excellent site!
When I reached the Galehead Hut, there was a drawing of a person climbing with a caption “so…many…rocks!” I stopped and laughed maniacally…I think this is when I realized one has to be insane to do a Pemi Loop.
I dropped my pack and headed to tag the summit of Galehead before dinner, which is a half mile tops from the hut. This was my first time slack packing…and it felt weird. In fact, I slipped and fell for the one and only time on this hike on this trail. I think my body didn’t know what the heck to do without the pack! Ha! This puts me officially at halfway on the New Hampshire 48 4000 footers list! I got to sit and enjoy dinner with fellow peak baggers, Pemi loopers, and got to chat with some really cool thru hikers (past and present)!
Day 3: Galehead Hut to Lincoln Woods—16.5 miles
Today was the biggest mileage day and the one with the peaks that I was most excited for. I was also incredibly anxious over South Twin’s roughly 1100 feet elevation gain in just 0.8 miles right out of the gate. But as I lay in bed awaiting the 630 wake up from the Croo, I made the executive decision to go ahead and add North Twin to my list. I wasn’t worried about time as I had a headlamp, flashlight, and no time commitment to get back to my car. Thankfully breakfast was delicious, as I didn’t have much of an appetite due to my nerves for this allegedly horrific ascent.
I took my time packing my belongings and treated the blister that had developed on my heel on day one (I blame all the up and down rocks, as I’ve had good luck with blisters before). I set out slow and steady. The ascent was not what I thought it would be. In fact, I waited for the really hard steep parts I had been warned about. I didn’t see them. I was able to get my short little blister-laden self up and over the rocks with ease. I let people pass me as I was slightly hindered by my foot and wanted to keep some energy for the long day ahead, but I kept climbing nonetheless. Thanks, Katahdin, for preparing me for any and all steep ascents!
South Twin was very busy with traffic this morning so I dumped my pack to slackpack for the second time over to North Twin. This was one of my favorite trails and I am so glad I added this side trip (2.6 miles round trip)—while the summit of North Twin is less than incredible as it is wooded, the Twinway trail is truly a delight with the lush green forest surrounding you.
I hustled back to South Twin, snagged my pack, and headed along the Appalachian Trail for 2 miles toward the Bondcliff trail. This portion of the trail was a rest for the legs, as some parts are flatter walking with minimal rocks or boulders. Don’t get me wrong…there’s still lots of rocks. Lots and lots of rocks. At the Bondcliff connector, you can choose to head toward Zealand to tag another summit. I’m opting to combine this with another hut stay in the future, so I passed by the trail today. Once I connected to Bondcliff, the trail brought me up and over South Guyot (which doesn’t count but it was a beautiful open area nonetheless).
From here, I walked an easy 0.8 miles to West Bond’s connector. Once again, I dropped my pack and made the easy mile round trip excursion to snag another summit. This side trip is definitely worth it—there was a full 360 degree view of the Pemi Loop I had completed thus far…and a stunning view of where I was headed. I continued on to Bond, where the half mile walk from West Bond’s connector seemed like the easiest, gradual ascent of the entire trek. I was giddy with excitement with what was to come and was even able to snag some cell service to post to social media that I was on Bond…Mount Bond. Saw some gray jays but declined to feed them. (Leave No Trace, kids. Don’t feed the animals.)
The approach from Bond to Bondcliff was unbelievable and unforgettable. This part of the journey was the ultimate pilgrimage of my lifetime so far. Each step taken from day one had been bringing me to here…Bondcliff. This was the end game and ultimate goal of choosing to do a clockwise Pemi Loop. The views from this trail and the views from the summit are nothing short of spectacular. The winds were slightly chilly and gusting at around 45-50 miles per hour as I stood on the infamous cliff, but the only thing taking my breath away that day was the revelation that I had just crushed a goal I had been dreaming about for the last 4 years.
As I made my way slowly away from the summit, I turned and took one final look back across the Pemigewasset Wilderness and smiled. But this wasn’t just any smile. This was one that radiated from the inside out—straight from my soul. This is what it truly means to be happy.
The 6.2 miles on Bondcliff felt like an eternity. I brought headphones for this portion of the trek (which is something I never do…but I’m glad I did)—I may have done some trail running with a 25 pound pack for 5 of those miles. As I crossed the bridge before the final 2.6 miles on the Lincoln Woods Trail, I stopped, looked out at the view of the water, had a song hit my headphones that will forever resonate within my heart…and I cried. It finally hit me. I had just completed an incredibly wickedly wild adventure…around 11,000 feet total elevation gained, 12 4000 footers, 36.7 miles, 3 days, solo, all while carrying a pack weighing 25/30 pounds depending on amount of water. This definitely wasn’t an easy thing to do…but I did it! I had actually done it! And I can’t wait for the next adventures to come.
To all of the amazing people I met along this journey, I wish you all well on the path of life—and whatever wonderful direction it may take you!
