My daughter had told me that she didn’t want to play fall sports this year. After many conversations to make sure that she was really certain this was her officially official decision, my calculated response to her was that if that was the case, her you-know-what was grass and she was officially selling her soul to hike the Crockers and Redington (and hiking a LOT of miles at least every other weekend) with me. Well, that was really all it took for her to do the math and realize just how close she was to completing the 14 Maine 4000 Footers. I could see her gears turning as she looked off into the distance and stated that if she could catch up to me, we could finish the list together.
That was the moment everything changed in our worlds. As she accepted her fate, I chose to halt my plan to finish my own list this season if only to allow her to catch up to me and to share that celebratory summit party with the coolest kid ever. Which meant a few repeats for me…and I was absolutely okay with that as I knew she’d be coming along with me this time around!
We started planning, plotting, and packing…and I was so proud of her for setting yet another incredibly challenging but attainable and amazing goal. She never ceases to amaze me. I can’t wait to watch her continue to shine as she gets older.
Our adventures are highlighted below!
South Crocker, North Crocker, Redington 8/21/2021
Always remember to turn around and look out at the view.
Apparently, climbing Katahdin the Monday before we tackled this triple bag just wasn’t enough for me. It was back to the AT to snag South Crocker, North Crocker, and Redington. South Crocker stands at 4010, North Crocker at 4168, and Redington at 4010 (although the marker says 3984…it lies!).
Haters gonna hate: This triple bag of mountains totally gets a bad wrap and peak baggers only do them “because they’re on the list.” Well, we thought it would be the same for us…but I was pleasantly surprised and found this to be a fairly decent, easy trail with lots of lush green moss, mushrooms, and bushwhacking! Yes, bushwhacking! Finally—some excitement!
Of course, some of that excitement meant the return of me stumbling upon FREAKING A-HOLE GROUND HORNETS yet again just at the start of the bushwhack. So, my daughter had the brilliant idea to bushwhack the bushwhack and we successfully maneuvered back onto the trail. With no stings!
This kid of mine was amazing. She hasn’t done much in the way of hiking because of camp…and this was her first 4000 footer since Katahdin in October last fall. She didn’t just tag one—she tagged all 3! She’s only got 4 of the 14 Maine peaks to go—and we’ve got some major plans to get her caught up fast! I am SO dang proud of her!!!
If you’re planning to do the Crockers and Redington, we highly suggest the loop. It’s gentle on the knees and beautiful to the eyes.
But watch out for those a-hole hornets!
Sugarloaf and Spaulding 9/4/2021
This view is simply amazing in all 4 of our seasons.
I swore I’d never EVER do Spaulding EVER, EVERRRRR again but that kid of mine hit 12/14 on the 4000 foot list after doing this double bag!
In early September, we headed back to the other side of the road from where we were two weeks prior and hit up Sugarloaf (4237’) and Spaulding (4009’ although the sign totally lies)! One had killer views…the other just had rocks and roots and trees lol. My daughter officially hit numbers 11 and 12 after this hike—SO proud!!!
This is a beautiful portion of the AT with lots of gentle grades, steep and giant boulder fields, rocks, roots, moss, mushrooms, and the official 200 miles left to go “marker” for all AT northbound thru hikers! It’s also where the final link of the AT was officially connected between north and south on August 14, 1937. There’s an official marker to commemorate that amazing feat! We saw a lot of thru and flip floppers today—got to talk with a few of them and I love this part about hiking. Also got to talk to others who have done other NE 67 peaks; I’m starting to think that my kid may have caught the sickness and might be interested in tackling the Long Trail with me now…
Back to this trail…I have a love hate relationship with Spaulding. The ridge walk between Sugarloaf and Spaulding is my all time hands down favorite stretch of any trail I’ve ever walked. But that 150 yard haul to the top just plain sucks. Today, it may have redeemed itself as my favorite co-pilot truly enjoyed it. Which by default made me enjoy it.
Unfortunately, her feet have continued to grow since getting her new hiking shoes just a few months ago. Teenagers lol! She put up with it like a champ…but those last two miles back to the car (and back around those giant boulders) was just a long slog. She still rocked it. And now I guess have a new pair of boots for me since they’re my size. We’re on the hunt for new ones before our next adventure—Katahdin!
After a quick stop in Skow-Vegas for snacks (and I maybe let her get a Mountain Dew because she crushed this hike today!), all was right again. We rocked out to Weezer and Johnny Cash on the way home. Great day in the mountains and amazing day with my girl.
Bring on the final 2!
Katahdin via Hunt Trail 9/19/2021
The Katahdin Tableland is my favorite place in the entire world.
This was a perfect day for climbing! We didn’t need this one for the list, but it sure marked the teenage hiker’s number 5 summit and my lucky number 13! This poor girl has been up and down this mountain 4 times now and every single time has included Abol in some fashion or another. So today, it was to be up Hunt and down Hunt so she could experience its ruggedness in all of its glory—which I was absolutely okay with because it’s my favorite trail!
It’s also a major ass kicker. We’re banged up! Scraped up! Bruised and sore! I had warned her that we would need to be able to give ourselves extra time going down on the boulders and ribar—yes, RIBAR—and she did amazing! And her new shoes worked magically! They’re officially broken in now!
We got to see TONS of thru hikers cheer each other on at the summit today and congratulated them up and down the trail. We even got asked if we were thru hikers and one told my kid she should do it with me in a few years. She’s now at the “I’m thinking about it” phase. Progress!
I think I’m gonna take a break from Katahdin for a bit. I think two weeks should do it.
Fun story: This was the first time I was actually in line with a pass BEFORE 6am at the gate. Major shout out to the Milli Dunkin’ for opening at 430. Totally hit them up for their darkest roast before getting in line at the gate. This is going to be the start of a new tradition!
Hamlin 10/3/2021
South Turner and the Fall foliage as seen from Hamlin Ridge Trail.
Doesn’t everyone prepare for big mountain climbs with matching Halloween jammies, Snapchat filters, unicorn cakes, and Halloween movie marathons? No? Well, I guess we’re just cooler than cool then.
The first 2 weekends in October have become our annual weekends to hike Katahdin. This adventure started out quite eerie and somber. We made our way to the Milli Dunkin’ for another delicious dark roast for the long wait in line at the Baxter Gate, and we were quickly greeted by a Ranger, who informed us that there would be other Rangers coming through as there was a search and rescue operation going on during the day. As we made our way to the gate, they told us a bit more to keep us informed and prepared for what we may see throughout the day.
We passed their post at Katahdin Lake, with their mobile unit set up and many wardens/Rangers/SAR getting ready for the day. We asked if we needed to be on the lookout today for anything to provide any help, and we were told that we would be okay on our side of the trail. So, off we went!
Hamlin Ridge is simply beautiful and doesn’t get the love that I feel it deserves. Peakbaggers seeking the 4000 footers tack it on to a long day with Baxter, but I really love going up and down just this one trail in one day, taking the time to enjoy the view of Pamola, Knife Edge, South Turner, and beyond. Plus, it has one of those epic spiny ridges that you all know I love to play on.
It was a layer on layer off kind of day. We were able to enjoy all of the day despite low temps in the upper 30s/low 40s—we were treated to beautiful nonstop views and only saw two other hiking parties climbing Hamlin all day. One pair as we went up and a group of college age kids still climbing up as we were going down. We saw and heard helicopters all day, and stopped to watch them as they passed each time, silently throwing good vibes into the universe.
The cut off trail is always damp, mossy, and so green. I always forget how beautiful it it. And chimney pond is just…chimney pond. But we chose to take lots of stops to see the viewpoints, changing leaves, water features (which were all bone dry when I was here in August!), and mushrooms (my kid loves them!)!
I talked with her about not always needing to go for the big K summit—we don’t have to tag Baxter to say we climbed Katahdin. Hamlin is 4756’ up rocks, roots, boulders, more boulders, rock scrambles…to do that and get down safely is still just as badassy as tagging a faded sign. It’s safe to say that we’re finally ready to explore the back side of the mountain a little more next year with some hardcore backpacking adventures.
We both realized that after a summer hiking most weekends on the Appalachian trail, we really miss the white blazes unique to that trail. We need to go back for more. All 2190 miles more. I mean, she hasn’t thrown me off a mountain yet…
But first, we’ll finish our Maine 4000 footers together next year on North Brother. Get ready—we’re ready to celebrate this one with a major camping adventure with all our friends!!! Happy trails and cheers to more adventures in the days to come!
Redington summit.
So lush and green!
She said this reminded her or Abraham–which was very accurate!
I missed you, white blazes!
The canister at the summit of Redington.
200 miles to go to Katahdin between Spaulding and Sugarloaf!
The spur to Spaulding.
The view from Hamlin Ridge is simply spectacular in the Fall!
Watching the world below.
❤️
We were just there…
Checking out the “You’re Entering the Maine Wilderness” warning sign on the Chimney Pond Trail.
Borestone as seen from the Barren Ledges along the 100 Mile Wilderness
The 100 Mile Wilderness has been a bucket list item of mine for a long time now. When I was approached about joining the Wilderness Walk for Warriors for this trek, I was honored—and immediately said YES! Our team of 8 strong would be honoring Maine’s heroes who were KIA in Korea and Vietnam. This was meaningful to me, as my grandfather served in the Korean War, possibly alongside those were were honoring on our hike. I was also honored to carry the flags of Patriot Rider Stephen Gilman and Captain Jay Brainard for the duration of this trek. Jay’s godparents are so extra special to me. It meant the world to me to have him by my side as I experienced the hardest and most incredible thing I have ever done in my entire life. The flag of MSG Gary Gordon from Lincoln, Maine was also present alongside us for our 10 day adventure.
I was struck down by blisters on my pinky toes on day one and day two…do we even really need those toes? Seriously! And then right out of the gate on day two, I stumbled on a water crossing, fell, hit my knee, shin, and eyebrow (and bruised my pride in the meantime). These slight injuries (and the weight of my pack) slowed my pace exponentially but I was finally able to find a way to tape them/reduce the pain with a little vitamin A—Aleve. But my pack still felt as though it weighed 5000 pounds and kept gaining weight, not losing it. I was so frustrated that I couldn’t hike my normal pace in those first few days. I sat down on a rock halfway up White Cap and was so overcome with emotions that we were close to halfway, everything everywhere on my body hurt, and I seriously questioned why I was doing this…and I cried silent tears of frustration, joy, and pain. But as each day progressed, I found that I was feeling stronger and my body was adjusting to the challenges I was facing. I kept reminding myself of our mission: Hike a hike worthy of their sacrifice. That kept me going day in and day out. Well, that and the endless supply of snacks in my snack pack that I know Captain Jay would have approved of!
I have learned I can wear the same outfit for over a week and survive…and most days it will still be damp when I put it on in the mornings. Everything I need can be carried on my back. I can bathe in a river or brook or lake fully clothed or in my underwear. Laughter is the best medicine. Smiles not miles. Trail magic is beautiful. I can drink water that I’ve filtered myself out of mud puddles or frog infested lakes and not die. Warm, dry clothes and a soft, warm bed are truly a luxury. And I really enjoy running water. Cold, running, tap water…or hot, scalding shower water.
I journaled every single evening of the trip…highlighting the challenges and the triumphs. What follows is from those journal entries and my post-hike reflections.
Day 1: Route 15 Monson to Little Wilson Falls, 7 miles
Eeeeeek! The official sign!
The day began with a support/escort with motorcycles and jeeps from right around the corner in my hometown of Bangor all the way to Monson. I said good bye to my mom and dad (after making a few last minute ditches of articles of clothing from my pack) and headed off. My stomach flipped as we passed the town line for Monson. Everything was real and really happening at this point! We were treated to a BBQ with burgers, hot dogs, chips, and sodas (including Moxie!). After a ceremony honoring the 8th annual Wilderness Walk for Warriors, we headed to the trailhead. I went all fan-girl when I saw the official famous 100 Mile Wilderness sign and already ended up at the back of the hiking pack because I wanted to take a photo of this official sign (and…a selfie. Because I just HAD to). Those were the ONLY photos I took that day! This isn’t like me at all! Today was filled with what we call pointless ups and downs (PUDs). There really weren’t any true visual vistas anyway…we saw a lot of woods walking today. The trails were beautiful, but two words describe today’s hike in to our campsite: Rocks and roots. Good lord, I was tired that night. The good news is: My sleeping arrangement was comfy. I had the sounds of the falls to lull me to sleep and the last minute change out for the 35 degree synthetic sleeping bag (and additional 1 pound) was worth it as it was slightly damp and chilly that night. As I fell asleep that night, I remember preparing myself that the next day would be more of the same as the first…and that there was WAY too much in my pack.
Day 2: Little Wilson Falls to Long Pond Stream, 8 miles
Just before leaving the site for the night…and my water crossing black eye incident some 10 minutes later.
Today, our team divided into smaller groups and the ones I was hiking with all collectively decided that we would be practicing mindful hiking. We would take in the sights, sounds, smells, and also afford the opportunity to take more photos! It started off a little shaky. Literally. My legs were wobbly. My gait was unsteady. I really didn’t sleep well. I was SO comfortable but I was just a little nervous. And that feeling got worse. I slipped on a rock at the water crossing first thing right out of the gate. I hit my shin and my knee (my bad knee, of course). I felt my pack shift to the right and down I fell, head first and bumped my eyebrow on a rock. My hiker team stopped to check me out and ran a quick concussion check (I still swear I was okay, mom, it was just a bump!). I was extra anxious and careful for the rest of the day…but I did get to panic a little bit. What if I were doing this one all by myself? I legit needed my team’s help with a study hand during the other crossings. I am so grateful for them. Their humor, compassion, and similar mindsets got me back on track with feeling less anxious as the day progressed. Today was another day of pointless ups and downs and occasional slipping or tripping on those plentiful rocks and roots. Laughter continued to prevail and was the one thing that kept me moving forward. We made it to camp around 3 and got to swim/wash in the stream. It was SO refreshing. There is something to be said about being able to shelter yourself, cook, and live without any modern luxuries. I continued to think that I still had way too much in my pack. When I get home, I am making SERIOUS changes!
Day 3: Long Pond Stream to Site off Fourth Mountain, 8 miles
Pitcher plants in the bog!
Today was climbing day! I was excited for a view! And also the chance to have cell service to text home for a proof of life update. Apparently, coverage is great here! We stopped to get water at a lean to and I’m glad we did. It may have hurt to have that extra 2 pounds there but I drank every single drop! Barren Mountain is RELENTLESS. It is rocky, rooty, steep, and NEVER ENDING! But it was absolutely gorgeous. The ledges were exceptionally beautiful—and gave a peek of what was to come! The view across the way to Borestone was one of my favorite sights along this entire trip. Borestone was one of my favorite adventures with my daughter in the last few years as I introduced her to Western Maine hiking. We were able to relax at the summit and enjoy a well-deserved break. My legs were SO stiff but they were feeling stronger every single day. I was still struggling with getting used to not being able to hop or twist of scoot like I had done before with a 10 pound pack. We began our way to Fourth Mountain and the hike was through a flat forest lush with moss. We got more water from a natural spring (and this would be our last refill until tomorrow), so I chose to carry an extra 2 pounds up and over Fourth. That mountain climbed gently and we passed through a beautiful bog filled with pitcher plants and bog bridges before actually starting the true ascent. It wasn’t hard…but there were about 9 false summits and at this point we all wanted to just set up camp and eat the 500 pounds of food in our packs. We took one small but truly enjoyable break just before the true summit. We found the 2100 mile marker of the Appalachian Trail laid out in rocks. How cool was that? We made our way down past VERY steep rocks that seemed to be placed in the worst possible places…rocks that I could normally hop, skip, flip, and slide down if I only had my lovely little daypack. We made our way to our campsite, set up, and I had my turkey dinner for dinner. I handed off a few bags of trail mix to a hiker who had a critter get into their food…and I felt good about helping them out (and also losing a bit of weight from my pack!). I also had cell service here! So awesome!
Day 4: Site off Fourth Mountain to just before West Branch Crossing
Not even the blisters can get you down when you take a look at this view!
Today was tough. My plan to fix my blisters didn’t work. But the pain did go away at times. We had started out the day right out of the gate up and over Third Mountain. I thoroughly enjoyed this one! It was beautiful! I was starting to learn how the pack felt and how my body moved with it. It was strange how just a few days will condition you like that. We moved on to Columbus Mountain after a brief stop for water. We had started out rationing this morning due to our dry location for the overnight. From there, we moved on to Chairback. What a beautiful view! We had snacks, I re-taped my feet (I may be on to something at this point!), and we began the LONG descent down to our campsite for the evening. Coming down off Chair was INTENSE. The rocks were absolutely bonkers. Steep, steep, steep! But I was also extra careful. The walk up and over several pretty bumps was what I needed to take my mind off the pain in my feet. However, nothing could take the pain away from the MURDER HORNETS that attacked me on the way. Those little a-holes even managed to go up my shorts! My team had never seen me run up until that point! It was worth it for the jokes that came from this event for sure! I’ve had my fair share of complaining this trip…but I am loving every single minute of it. Even the parts that suck (like the murder hornets!)! This is NOT easy. DO NOT try this at home. But I give it 10/10 stars and highly recommend!
Day 5: West Branch to Logan Brook Lean To
The mist added an ethereal feel to Gulf Hagas Mountain.
Today started out early. It would be long. 12-13 miles long! I had prepared enough to know that today would be one of the hardest days of the entire hike. We got up early, crossed the river, and headed for Gulf Hagas! I love Gulf Hagas! This morning, there was a misty rain that gave the forest a very ethereal feeling. I LOVE hiking in the rain and today proved that still to be true. Wandering past the Hermitage with that misty mountain weather was simply spectacular. I took a few photos but also took my time plugging away. Today was another multi-mountain day. We hit Gulf Hagas Mountain, West Peak, Hay Mountain, And White Cap. West Peak was just a blip and I was so focused on moving forward, I didn’t even look for a sign. Hay was pretty and lush. White Cap kicked my arse. These four mountains may as well be called the stairmaster workout of a lifetime. I have never seen so many stairs in one continuous mountain trail! I pushed hard and rarely took any breaks, which is why I think I really struggled today. I don’t ever marathon hike—I interval hike: Take pictures, take breaks, etc. I sat down on a large, flat, wet rock and cried 2/3 of the way up White Cap. I realized that we are almost halfway on our journey. Wow. What an accomplishment. I picked myself up and felt overwhelmed with emotions. I never thought I’d be doing this if you asked me 10 years ago. But there were were…our team. And we were really rocking it! The hike on White Cap was intense! Gusts of wind ripping the sing around, knocked me over, and pelted us with sideways rain. It was AWESOME! The hike down to the lean to was NOT awesome. I SWEAR Baxter and AT miles LIE. They are WAYYYY longer than they appear! Bonus for the evening…I had cell service at the lean to!
Day 6: Logan Brook Lean To to Jo Mary Road
The view from halfway up Little Boardman.
HAPPY BIRTHDAY to my kiddo (who was spending her summer at Girl Scout camp during my adventure on the AT!)! We went 15 miles today! We started off strong, pushing through a little over 4 miles quickly before we found a teammate struggling with the heat. We ran through some options and decided to work together to keep putting one foot in front of the other…slowly. Everyone offered support and words of encouragement. We worked as a team and sent some ahead to alert the rest of the crew what was happening. I was by myself for about 3.5 miles on the trail today and I was okay with that—it was on the “flat walking” portion of today’s adventure! I pulled out my phone and played my “Lincoln Woods Death March” playlist that I had created way back when I did my Pemi Loop. I picked up the pace and even ran a little bit. I felt I would be moving much faster if my feet didn’t hurt…but I was happy to be able to move at a decent pace today! This morning began with a descent from the lean to and then to a more gradual up/down flow through forests and marshes. We hiked up and over Little Boardman Mountain, which offered exceptional views of what we have climbed so far on our journey. We descended to a small brook, where we filled up our water and took a dip to cool our feet. It felt so nice to take the boots off even for just a small moment! My socks even almost completely dried in the sun! I re-taped my blisters and then began the walk on the flattest section I have yet to see on the trail! I kept thinking about how it was “gravy” as one of our new flip flopper friends had called the trail after White Cap…trail magic awaited us at our campsite and I think I had 3 sodas, 2 hot dogs, a sausage, and some sloppy Joe mix for dinner. I never drink soda! It was SO appreciated! Tonight, I am forever grateful for the trail angels!!! Happy number 14, girlie of mine!
Day 7: Jo Mary Road to Mahar Landing, 10 miles
Enjoying some fishing along the way.
The first push was relatively flat through tall pine-laden forests. There were plenty of birch and maple trees! Definitely “gravy.” We stopped at Antlers Campsite for a break, took a team photo as we enjoyed the view of Lower Jo-Mary Lake and were entertained with storytelling from one of our hiker friends. We laughed and then moved on through marshes, up and over water crossing by way of rock hopping and bog bridges, and then started climbing Potaywadjo hill. But just before that climb—just as we began the ascent—the skies opened up and poured down upon us. We got lucky—there were rumbles of thunder but no lightning! My Hyperlite pack continued to remain dry, even in a torrential downpour! We took a break at the lean to and ran into our hiker friend Patron. Once the rain let up and we had a snack/filled water at the coldest of springs, we headed for the final 2.5 miles to our camp. We passed through old growth forests laden with moss, lichen, HUGE root systems, rocks, bog bridges, and MORE murder hornets! I survived with only one little a-hole that landed on my gaiter that I was able to flick away easily. Our campsite was beautiful on a lake. We got there early enough to set up lines to dry clothes, sat around together at dinner and told stories, and even tried fishing! I was having a great time at this point—this is when I realized that I will do this again…because I understood that I would really be in love with this hike without the blisters. I was still smiling…we only had about 29 miles left at this point. 13 the day after, 14 after that…and 3.5ish the next day. I was so tired. I was so excited. I was SO sick of blisters…and began mentally updating my Amazon hiking wish list upon my return to civilization.
Day 8: Mahar Landing to Polywog Brook, 13ish miles
Our first glimpse of Katahdin from the viewpoint on Nesuntabunt.
Today was to be long. I actually almost cried at the start because everything hurt and I felt so discombobulated upon waking. There were some WEIRD noises coming from the campsite the night before. I slept weird. Like…asleep by maybe 8 and awake at 11….up at 3:30…4…then finally awake at 5. We started a half hour early and made our way toward our rendezvous point at the next lean to. We actually met up with our crew at yet another sand beach (this is number 3) instead. They were tapping the spring and it looked like they were playing in the sand making sandcastles. We then marched on and upward toward today’s mountain—Nesuntabunt—which is a large, steep, rocky climb to 1550 feet…but the viewpoint captured our first glimpse of Katahdin! We met a thru hiker going SoBo back to his home in Georgia. We shared cheese and a bracelet and he said this was his first trail magic! Glad to pay it forward! We descended the mountain, crossed a tote road, and came to the secluded Crescent Pond. What a hidden gem! So beautiful and secret—a true magical place off the beaten path. From there, we wandered through Polywog Gorge, which was lush and rocky and rooty. On the way to our site, we passed through a boggy area…but with little to no rain this season, this area was as dry as a bone. We made it to the campsite, soaked our feet in the cool water, and enjoyed a few cold beers compliments of a couple headed back home who offered to give us their remaining cold beers! I LOVE how awesome people are to hikers around here. I am going to enjoy the next few days—I know I will miss the people I have met/spent time with during this trip. I am SO glad I did this. We only have 17 miles left to go!
Day 9: Polywog Brook to Hurd Brook Lean To, 14ish miles
Lush green rocks and roots.
Today was another long day. Over 14 miles. My Garmin clocked it at 14.8, to be exact. It was a beautiful hike that started late as one of our teammates needed to exit due to injury. We started off following a beautiful roaring brook along the initial few miles, landing us at the Rainbow Lean To. We took a break and then headed off once more. We passed through beautiful woods as we made our way along Rainbow Lake, which seemed to go on for FOREVER. Despite passing along the water and lake for most of the morning, I still didn’t see any moose. Dang it. So many pointless ups and downs today. For example…WHY do we have to go up and over a range when we can just as easily go around it? HA! But it was truly exquisite—those pointless ups and downs were really worth it just to see the beautiful mossy forests. We made the final push up and onto the Rainbow Ledges, which were filled with ripe blueberries that we picked for a fresh snack. Unfortunately, they kind of tasted like bug spray. But we had cell service here so we sent some texts and checked in with family. It had been kind of drizzly all day, but it really started to pour on the way down to the lean to. The one summer where it doesn’t rain and it FINALLY decides to rain this time that I’m on the trail? So not cool. But we made it! My short little legs almost wiped out near the lean to because apparently the ONE place MATC doesn’t want to put bog bridges is around the dang slippery rocks just before the Hurd Brook Lean To! When we got to our tent site, we were greeted by the guys who helped us get our teammate home safely. They brought us cheeseburgers and chips! I almost cried. After that LONG hike in, those cheeseburgers were SUCH a morale booster. We dried our shoes and socks by the fire and laughed until bedtime. I am going to miss this crew. They are an incredible group of people! 3.3 miles left! It just seems so surreal! Tomorrow is the big day! 100 miles will be complete!
Day 10: Hurd Brook Lean To to Golden Road, 3.3 miles (ending at Katahdin Stream)
AT blaze across the Abol Bridge.
The hike out started out as a climb, but was over as quickly as it began. I must have thought we had more climbing to do, because just when I thought we were about to make our way up and over more rocks, roots, and mud…we finally began the gradual descent to the Golden Road. It felt as though we were there before we knew it! We walked the road to the Abol store, where we would meet our jeep friends for the ride into Baxter and our lean tos at Katahdin Steam for the evening. Our celebrations continued as we shared stories, food, snacks, and laughter into the night around the campfire. Our crew of 8 had forged bonds that will forever be remembered as we came together to honor those who gave their all and the ultimate sacrifice before us. We truly did hike a hike worthy of their sacrifice—and overcame our own challenges faced along the way. I completely recommend doing this trip to anyone—but proceed with caution. It is as emotionally challenging as it is physically challenging. And it is completely worth that challenge. I will absolutely be doing this adventure again!
Cheers until the next adventure!
Happy Trails, All!
Still smiling through the pain…because this is the most epic adventure yet!
Typical terrain.
Rocks and roots.
Still no moose…
Antlers Campsite.
Lower Jo-Mary Lake
Waiting to tap the spring…
Crescent Pond boat access.
Rainbow Lean To Crossing.
Still smiling on Monument Cliff!
My Little Black Dress didn’t fail me on this trip.
I’ve been wanting to check out Puzzle Mountain for forever now. Everyone I know that has climbed this mountain talks about how much they love it—and now I know why. It’s easily accessible off Route 26 in Newry, just a short bit before entering Grafton Notch State Park. There’s no bathroom, so make sure you stop and use a facility or prepare to go in the woods!
It’s honestly a nice, gentle on the knees moderate kind of hike…but don’t let that moderate rating fool you. There’s still rocks and roots and an occasional boulder or 20 to maneuver around. At 3133’ in the air, this mountain still offers plenty of elevation gain (my Garmin clocked in around 2700’ total) in the 7.4 miles from trailhead to the spur loop and back. If you do the loop hike (and you should because it’s like a magical fairy land up there—I had the whole place to myself today!), be sure to go clockwise from the true summit of Puzzle—it has the best views on the walk back.
Speaking of true summits, you hit a false peak with spectacular views that is known as Little Puzzle. This is about 0.3 miles before the true summit, which has no views. But the loop connector was there, so of course I slogged down and over ribar rungs to get there. Yes, ribar rungs. Nobody told me about those!
The higher summits forecast had called for thunderstorms if conditions were favorable—and boy oh boy were they ever favorable today. I somehow managed to time it just right and had just gotten down from the slippery ledges as the skies ominously became dark. It did pour on me for the final 2 miles, but I didn’t care. I was smiling and laughing and dancing in the rain today. It was a beautiful day to be outside!!! The sun reappeared in the sky just as I was approaching the end of the trip.
It was also an excellent reminder that the weather in Maine can change quite suddenly. We have an expression here in New England: If you don’t like the weather, just wait 5 minutes. This got me thinking on the walk back (in between the laugher and dancing) about the 10 essentials. They really and truly are a necessity when you’re hiking the remote, rugged trails here in our beautiful state. I’m gearing up to do the 100 Mile Wilderness in the next few days as of this post, and despite working to reduce my weight and work toward an ultralight hiking lifestyle, the quintessential “10 Essentials” has been something that has been on my mind a lot lately.
In the backcountry…and even some of the more popular spots to frequent, always try to have the following on hand:
Navigation: Map, compass, GPS (don’t trust the electronic GPS or your cell phone to work in all climates–know how to use an actual compass and map.)
Sun Protection: Sunscreen, hat, sunglasses are important not only in Summer but all of the other months too! I’ve been burned from the sun after it has reflected on miles of snow!
Lighting: Flashlight (with batteries/extra batteries) and headlamps (also with batteries/extra batteries). I have needed these more than once when climbing several larger mountains!
Clothing: Always bring layers. Jacket, gloves, waterproof clothing, hat. Throw in a few hand or toe warmers too–you never know when you’ll need them (they stay in my pack 365 days a year because I have Raynaud’s and they help when climbing the higher peaks any time of the year).
First Aid: Always bring a first aid kit. You can get some amazing ultralight ones pre-made at stores. For longer treks, don’t forget to throw in extra moleskin.
Fire: Always bring matches, lighters, or other fire starters. You never know when you will need it (and hope you never have to if it’s an emergency!)!
Tools: Knife, screw driver, multitool kits all come in handy for various reasons. I’ve used duct tape for many repairs or even blisters–wrap some around your trekking poles and save space/weight in your pack!
Food: Always bring enough food for your trip plus another day. Trail mix packs a powerful calorie punch in a small amount and is always a great idea. I am forever over-packing food…and can say that I have only ever under-packed once (and will never, ever, ever do that again!).
Water: Bring enough water, plan ahead for any potential water stops (but always assume that they may not be available due to drought), and bring treatment supplies for the event when you need to filter your water.
Shelter: Carrying a tent, tarp, hammock, emergency blanket, or bivouac shelter (bivy) are super important in the event of an emergency.
We always hope for the best but plan for the worst. I could list at least 5 more tips or items that I feel are warranted on any adventure you may be taking. As I changed my socks (extra socks are one of those items I could suggest adding to that extra essential list!) and had my final snack while pulling out the rain gear from my pack just before that rain storm hit, I reflected on how fortunate I was that I always carry the items to help me ensure I’ll not only have a successful but also a safe hike…and how I wanted to share that reflection with all of you. And as I had words start flowing into my mind that would eventually become this post, I allowed myself to embrace the rain and started dancing as I made my way down the trail back to my car.
And…yes, yes I did get a strawberry rhubarb crumb pie at the Puzzle Mountain Bakery. And a few whoopie pies (best ones in the state, if you ask me!). And a couple of maple cream cookies. And yes—they DO take Venmo! When you’re on your way home after your hike, make it part of your plan to stop here and grab some of their incredible baked goods. It’s a lovely little stand on the side of the road and it is completely on the honor system. After a long day of hiking and then dancing in the rain…ending it with a delicious homemade baked good made the ride back home oh so sweet. Another epic day hiking in those beautiful Maine mountains came to a close as I chased the massive storm clouds all the way home…all the while dreaming of someday doing the entire Grafton Notch Loop hike. I’ll be sure to bring you all along with me on that adventure as well–promise. But first…I will be taking on the 100 Mile Wilderness. Stay tuned for that post.
Happy Trails, all!
Beautiful trail terrain!
This could be slippery if given the right weather conditions!
I literally exclaimed that NOBODY told me there were RIBAR RUNGS to go down!!! Ha!
View from the lookout on the loop.
I love finding Old Man’s Beard.
And that storm is heading right toward me…time to head back down–quickly!
Puzzle Mountain Bakery’s stand. So worth the stop on this trip!
Let me tell you a story about the woman in this picture: She didn’t have a clue what she was doing. The boots were your typical bulky, insulated winter boots from an outdoor retail company. The gaiters were twelve bucks from a chain discount supply store. The pants were purchased at another outdoor retail company’s outlet stores for dirt cheap. They were lightly lined so she added a pair of fleece lined tights from the aforementioned discount supply store underneath that lightly lined layer.
She also had about 3 of everything in that 50 liter pack. It was heavy. And she couldn’t understand why it was taking so long to move such a small distance up the mountain. (Those first few solo hikes in winter are the primary reason I splurged on that fancy GPS I now carry.)
But oh, she had never felt what she felt stirring at that very moment as she entered the Alpine Zone in Winter and gazed upon the Presidential Range from 4000 feet in the air for the first time in her life. She was recharged…renewed…she felt more alive than ever before. She cried tears of disbelief that she had accomplished so much without even knowing exactly what she had gotten into.
But she knew from that moment on that this was going to be an ongoing occurrence in her life. She wouldn’t stop until her goal was met.
But what is that goal exactly? Is it tagging the highest peaks in New England? Is it the Long Trail? Returning out west to explore Washington or the PCT or the JMT? Or is it the 52 with a view in New Hampshire?
It’s all of the above.
And it starts with a little bit of self care…
I had planned a self care mini vacation this February. I had started this planning over a month and a half before I left as a way to give me something to look forward to. I failed to do so last year at this time of year and quickly approached burnout. I promised myself I would pay attention to that feeling and never have that happen again. Between work, volunteering, and all other aspects of my life, I am extremely active in lots of different, awesome groups and events and I love every minute of what I do. I’m single parenting a tweenager that I love dearly and some of those days are indeed harder than others as I struggle with letting her learn and grow independently. But it is imperative to take time for ourselves so we can take care of others…and I am finally practicing what I preach. ❤️
Day 1: Mount Willard
“There’s a wicked stawm comin’ so I think I’ll drive to where it’s gonna get hammahd with snow bub.” Said no one ever…except for this crazy woman right here! And there I found myself. In Crawford Notch, NH. Where it was getting hammahd with snow (and as my parents were on their way to Hawaii without me!).
I have been planning on adding yet another list (I know, I know, ANOTHER one?!?!), so I elected to hit up the “52 with a view” Mount Willard. There obviously wasn’t a view…who the h*ll climbs mountains in a snowstorm?! Oh, that’s right, me. It was too windy for the higher summits (and I’ve already tagged all those ones around Crawford Notch anyway). As of that moment, I’ve had the Pemi to my left and the Prezis to my right. With WTF in the middle (literally—Willey, Tom, and Field). And yes, when I did all three of them in one day, I did say WTF! Several times! 🤣
I broke my own trail all the way up after a delicious breakfast at the Highland Center, which was good because it was workout city in a storm—phew! I found my tracks were covered with fresh snow by the time I got down to the base of the mountain. The snow covering the trees made it wicked hard to see the trail markers at times. My hair was an icicle by the end, but my clothes stayed dry. It really does pay to have the right gear.
Speaking of gear, I really (really really REALLY) love my new mountaineering snowshoes. Like I am gaga in love with them. 😍 It’s as though you’re not even wearing them at all with these new bindings! And…let me just tell you all about those televators on steep sections. Like a dream. So dreamy.
Day 2: Mount Avalon
I drove here for this. 😍
Today was a much more picture worthy day—went up the wicked steep Avalon trail and sure was grateful for those heel televators on my snowshoes!
The nice thing about winter hiking is that the snow covers all the god awful (I mean beautiful, giant, magnificent) rocks one has to scramble and climb over to get to the summit. It also allows one to butt slide down the wicked steep parts, which I totally did and went “weeeeeeeee” like a kid on a National Lampoon greased up sled. Mind you, the first time I butt slid it was totally on accident because I fell on my ass and decided that since I was already down there, I might as well just let go and enjoy the ride. And so I did. And then did it about 4 other times coming down the Avalon trail.
You can’t do that in the summer down those rocks!!! And you can’t do that on a cruise ship traveling to Hawaii, mom and dad! 🤣
It was a beautifully bittersweet day to hit the 100 miles on my Taji Challenge as well. Now I guess it’s back to just the Run the Year for me (like that isn’t enough!)! 🏃🏼♀️
Did I forget to mention the highlight of using my ice axe to chisel out my car after the storm yesterday? I do believe I provided at least some form of quality entertainment to the staff and guests of the AMC Highland Center during that adventure. (I’m from Maine and I’m a Girl Scout—I know how to use my resources wisely!)
Back home tomorrow night to return for the start of many obligations in the months to come as well as to see that awesome kid of mine that I miss so much. But while I’m here, I plan to get the most out of it and do the Around the Lake trail (Ammonoosuc Lake) in the morning. And I think I’m going to stop in North Conway to shop because after all that running I’ve been doing, my pants don’t fit anymore. 🤣
Happy Trails all. Cheers!
Addendum: The above was the original post that I had intended to publish not long after I had returned home late February/early March 2020…and then everything went by the wayside as COVID-19 hit. (And it hit fast!) With that in mind, I still stand by the need for self-care—we need it now more than anything. Take care of yourselves. Be well. Keep on keeping on…and keep on hiking! ❤️
Off I go to hike in a blizzard.Approaching the “viewpoint.”Crawford Notch stop.Cool dinosaur dude in the snow.I may or may not have butt sled down after this ascent. 🤣Around the lake. Peaceful and quiet trek before heading home after a wonderful and much needed adventure.Red Bench Overlook. No views of Mount Washington today…but the trail was simply stunning with the freshly fallen snow.
Yesterday marked my 9th Katahdin climb (7 Baxter summits, 1 Baxter/Pamola summit, and 1 Hamlin summit). It was also my daughter’s third summit of Baxter peak in less than one year. She had set this goal for herself and crushed it with ease (that girl of mine is truly my hero and inspiration!)! It was a bluebird sky day with snow on the summit (yeah snow ball fights!)…but also a reminder of how important safety is when setting out to climb this massif. I’ve had a lot of time on the trails in all sorts of weather to think about things that went wrong, things that went well, and things I’ll never do again. I’ve compiled an ongoing list I’ve come to call Thoughts on Katahdin:
*Get to the gatehouse early. And I mean early. Even with a day use parking pass. Also—get a day use parking pass. Don’t risk the major bummer of not being able to climb because you can’t get a parking spot. Maybe even consider a campsite the night before your hike.
*Pack it in and pack it out. Plain and simple. This includes your banana/orange peels and eggshells and toilet paper (GROSS! No one wants to see your discarded used tissues along the trail)! There’s one section of Hunt that’s notorious for this—so disgusting. Just be respectful, don’t feed the animals, and pick up after yourself. Please and thanks!
*Have a backup plan. And a backup backup plan. Katahdin doesn’t care about your plans. The weather can be quite uncooperative!
*Check with the rangers on the latest up to date forecast. If there’s a good chance of lightning happening that day, just don’t do it. And if you do decide to climb, sign in and out at the station so they know you made it down safely (or so they don’t send a search party looking for you).
*The boulders are unbelievably huge. Bring a friend to help you and your pack get up and over/down the really big ones! (Seriously—I’ve had to have the kid use me as a step stool more than once!)
*In the summer months, bring extra water. Bring a filter. But remember that the springs at the top can be unreliable during dry spells.
*In the cooler months, bring extra water. And maybe even a water bottle parka.
*Speaking of layers…cotton kills! Bring moisture wicking layers. And a fleece. And a soft shell. And a waterproof shell. And a warm hat. And gloves. And extra socks. Maybe mittens and a balaclava or goggles. The temperature can be 50 degrees at the base of the mountain…but can be at or below freezing up top! Hypothermia can happen at a temperature of 50 degrees or more if there’s the right combination of moisture or chill winds.
*The minute you hear the words “snow forecasted for the mountains,” drop everything you’re doing and put microspikes in your pack. Don’t take them out until June. Maybe even July.
*Have a snowball fight if there’s snow.
*Bring the 10 essentials. At minimum. Map, compass, warm clothing, extra food/water, matches/fire starters, first aid kit, whistle, rain gear, pocket knife, flashlight/headlamp (extra batteries as well!).
*Good lord, there’s a lot of rocks.
*Take breaks, layer/delayer, and eat snacks! Some chips even double as fire starters!
*Chocolate gets melty in summer.
*If at any point in time you are struggling, check yourself. You may be able to get up the mountain, but remember—you have to also get yourself down the mountain. There’s no hitching a ride down the auto road or train to hop on here. And climbing down when you’re fatigued is extremely unsafe and when accidents are more likely to occur.
*The gym doesn’t prepare you for hiking. Hiking prepares you for hiking. (But the gym can help with your overall health…so go!)
*The first week of October is a good time to witness a lot of Appalachian Trail hikers complete their 2180+ mile journey at the summit. It’s my favorite time to climb. Take time to talk to them and hear their stories—they’re some of the friendliest and coolest people I’ve ever met.
*It’s okay to have a meltdown. This mountain isn’t easy. Sometimes we feel like we’re climbing for forever, and ever, and ever…and this can totally wear on your psyche. Breathe, talk about it, and just keep putting one foot in front of the other. You’ll get there eventually. Promise.
*Have fun. Laugh. Enjoy the view.
*If there isn’t a view on a cloudy day, notice the ethereal beauty that a misty sky creates around you.
*Get contacts. Wet and foggy glasses while walking in the clouds leads to tripping or waltzing right into boulders you can’t see.
*If you have weak knees, get a pair of trekking poles. I always carry at least one (which really helps for balance if there’s a water crossing!).
*Set a turnaround time and stick to it! I repeat—set a turnaround time and stick to it! Don’t let pride get the best of you in an attempt to stand next to that famous sign and proclaim that you’ve conquered the mountain. Safety is number one!
*Edmund Hillary said it best: It is not the mountain we conquer but ourselves.
And it can change you in incredible ways forever.
Taking care of yourself and your hiking party is priority one. Remember that Katahdin (or any other mountain, really) will always be there to climb another day. Safely.
These are just a few of the things I’ve suggested to others over the years. It’s worked for me but may not work for you. What’s most important is that you’re thinking about getting out there and doing awesome things outside! Here’s to hiking and health and always celebrating a safe journey back home!
Love the sight of snow on the tableland!We could hear the celebratory cheers as Appalachian Trail thru hikers completed their journeys.There’s something magical about snow on the summit and the fires of fall down below…She had to show that’s she’s touching the marker.Rime ice!My forever wild child.Don’t forget to occasionally look up.I absolutely love Abol in the fall.
The ever famous Bondcliff…with the mountains traversed on this adventure in the background!
At an average of 33 miles, 9000 plus feet elevation gain, up to 12 4000 footers in one go, and ranked by Backpacker magazine as the second hardest day hike in America, I headed for New Hampshire’s Pemigewasset Wilderness the week before Labor Day on what is famously called the “Pemi Loop.” I booked two Appalachian Mountain Club huts well in advance (hey, I’m all for paying for the cool AMC Croo to cook and sing to me!) and crossed my fingers that Karma would take care of the weather for this adventure of a lifetime.
Karma pulled through like never before.
Maybe it was the thru hikers I picked up along 93 and dropped off in Lincoln at a local outfitter the night before my trek. We jammed out to Phish and I told them to keep the gas money they offered for themselves for a well deserved beer at the local burger joint. They said Karma and the hiking gods were sure to smile upon us as they, too, would be crossing the ridge in the morning. Whatever it was…it worked.
Day One: Lincoln Woods to Greenleaf Hut—11.7 miles
I didn’t want to get up. It was still raining as I pulled the covers up over my head in my cheap, cozy hotel bed. I decided to take my time getting ready (with the intention of being at the trailhead by sunrise). At the trailhead, I signed in as an overnight hiker and started my journey. Well…until I remembered that I had left my bear spray on the hood of my car. So I turned around, snagged it, and clipped it to my pack. And then I was off. For real this time.
The initial stretch of Lincoln Woods was flat and spooky in the early hours of the morning. Once I reached the Osseo trail, it was 4 miles of up. Steady, moderate, monotonous, rocky, and rock stair/wooden ladder-laden-up. It’s honestly a gentle beast with one heck of a premonition of what is to come for the remainder of this voyage—rocks. Lots and lots of rocks.
I was overjoyed to reach the summit of Flume. I was denied this summit a few years ago as there were thunderstorms moving in as I crested Liberty (with the intention of snagging Flume that day). Today was about redemption and moving forward with my goal of tagging each and every single 4000 footer in New England. As I tagged this summit and continued on my journey up and over Liberty and Little Haystack, I smiled. The rest of today (5000 footers Lincoln and Lafayette) was smooth sailing as I had just completed the hardest stretch—gaining 3100 feet of elevation in one go—and I made sure to take my time to stop and enjoy the view as I traversed the infamous Franconia Ridge. It was all downhill from here…at least until Greenleaf Hut and the ascent of Lafayette for the second time in less than 24 hours the next morning…
Day Two: Greenleaf Hut to Galehead Hut—8.5 miles
After a delicious breakfast at Greenleaf Hut of oatmeal with chocolate chips, eggs, sausage, cornbread, and coffee, it was time to climb an extra 1000 feet to Lafayette’s summit, where I would connect to the Garfield Ridge Trail for today’s short in mileage (but incredibly long with ups and downs) adventure. There were beautiful blue skies as I descended Lafayette to the col that would take me to Garfield’s summit. This was quite the pleasant ridge walk, scattered with rocks and an exciting boulder scramble or two. Once the descent of Garfield begins, you’ll have to climb down a portion of wet rocks, as a stream flows down the trail here. Use caution—the rocks can get quite slippery. This is also when I recalled the warnings that even though the Garfield Ridge Trail looks pretty benign on paper, don’t let that fool you. Those little speed bumps on paper are actually rock-laden up and down and up and down and up and down periods of climbing…and just when you think you’re done and leveling out…you go up and down some more! I didn’t realize there were that many rocks in New Hampshire! Along the way, be sure to stop at the Garfield Campsite for water! If you’re not staying at the huts, this is also an excellent site!
When I reached the Galehead Hut, there was a drawing of a person climbing with a caption “so…many…rocks!” I stopped and laughed maniacally…I think this is when I realized one has to be insane to do a Pemi Loop.
I dropped my pack and headed to tag the summit of Galehead before dinner, which is a half mile tops from the hut. This was my first time slack packing…and it felt weird. In fact, I slipped and fell for the one and only time on this hike on this trail. I think my body didn’t know what the heck to do without the pack! Ha! This puts me officially at halfway on the New Hampshire 48 4000 footers list! I got to sit and enjoy dinner with fellow peak baggers, Pemi loopers, and got to chat with some really cool thru hikers (past and present)!
Day 3: Galehead Hut to Lincoln Woods—16.5 miles
Today was the biggest mileage day and the one with the peaks that I was most excited for. I was also incredibly anxious over South Twin’s roughly 1100 feet elevation gain in just 0.8 miles right out of the gate. But as I lay in bed awaiting the 630 wake up from the Croo, I made the executive decision to go ahead and add North Twin to my list. I wasn’t worried about time as I had a headlamp, flashlight, and no time commitment to get back to my car. Thankfully breakfast was delicious, as I didn’t have much of an appetite due to my nerves for this allegedly horrific ascent.
I took my time packing my belongings and treated the blister that had developed on my heel on day one (I blame all the up and down rocks, as I’ve had good luck with blisters before). I set out slow and steady. The ascent was not what I thought it would be. In fact, I waited for the really hard steep parts I had been warned about. I didn’t see them. I was able to get my short little blister-laden self up and over the rocks with ease. I let people pass me as I was slightly hindered by my foot and wanted to keep some energy for the long day ahead, but I kept climbing nonetheless. Thanks, Katahdin, for preparing me for any and all steep ascents!
South Twin was very busy with traffic this morning so I dumped my pack to slackpack for the second time over to North Twin. This was one of my favorite trails and I am so glad I added this side trip (2.6 miles round trip)—while the summit of North Twin is less than incredible as it is wooded, the Twinway trail is truly a delight with the lush green forest surrounding you.
I hustled back to South Twin, snagged my pack, and headed along the Appalachian Trail for 2 miles toward the Bondcliff trail. This portion of the trail was a rest for the legs, as some parts are flatter walking with minimal rocks or boulders. Don’t get me wrong…there’s still lots of rocks. Lots and lots of rocks. At the Bondcliff connector, you can choose to head toward Zealand to tag another summit. I’m opting to combine this with another hut stay in the future, so I passed by the trail today. Once I connected to Bondcliff, the trail brought me up and over South Guyot (which doesn’t count but it was a beautiful open area nonetheless).
From here, I walked an easy 0.8 miles to West Bond’s connector. Once again, I dropped my pack and made the easy mile round trip excursion to snag another summit. This side trip is definitely worth it—there was a full 360 degree view of the Pemi Loop I had completed thus far…and a stunning view of where I was headed. I continued on to Bond, where the half mile walk from West Bond’s connector seemed like the easiest, gradual ascent of the entire trek. I was giddy with excitement with what was to come and was even able to snag some cell service to post to social media that I was on Bond…Mount Bond. Saw some gray jays but declined to feed them. (Leave No Trace, kids. Don’t feed the animals.)
The approach from Bond to Bondcliff was unbelievable and unforgettable. This part of the journey was the ultimate pilgrimage of my lifetime so far. Each step taken from day one had been bringing me to here…Bondcliff. This was the end game and ultimate goal of choosing to do a clockwise Pemi Loop. The views from this trail and the views from the summit are nothing short of spectacular. The winds were slightly chilly and gusting at around 45-50 miles per hour as I stood on the infamous cliff, but the only thing taking my breath away that day was the revelation that I had just crushed a goal I had been dreaming about for the last 4 years.
As I made my way slowly away from the summit, I turned and took one final look back across the Pemigewasset Wilderness and smiled. But this wasn’t just any smile. This was one that radiated from the inside out—straight from my soul. This is what it truly means to be happy.
The 6.2 miles on Bondcliff felt like an eternity. I brought headphones for this portion of the trek (which is something I never do…but I’m glad I did)—I may have done some trail running with a 25 pound pack for 5 of those miles. As I crossed the bridge before the final 2.6 miles on the Lincoln Woods Trail, I stopped, looked out at the view of the water, had a song hit my headphones that will forever resonate within my heart…and I cried. It finally hit me. I had just completed an incredibly wickedly wild adventure…around 11,000 feet total elevation gained, 12 4000 footers, 36.7 miles, 3 days, solo, all while carrying a pack weighing 25/30 pounds depending on amount of water. This definitely wasn’t an easy thing to do…but I did it! I had actually done it! And I can’t wait for the next adventures to come.
To all of the amazing people I met along this journey, I wish you all well on the path of life—and whatever wonderful direction it may take you!
The beautiful approach to Bondcliff.South Twin ascent. Steep…but totally do-able!Franconia Ridge Day One!Sunset and alpenglow on Lafayette from Greenleaf Hut.
I’ve been dreaming of the White Mountains ever since vacationing in New Hampshire as a kid with my bratty younger sister next to me. We drove through the Notches and looked up in wonder at the Old Man in the Mountain from the backseat of our beast of a 1980 Bonneville (which I also happened to learn to drive in!). Well, that look of wonder magically turned to longing and wanderlust in my adult years and has brought me to who I am today chasing summits…and pursuing each of the 67 New England 4000 footers.
This last month marked the anniversary date of the first time I climbed Katahdin…my first official 4000 footer. Go big or go home, right? Well, I guess I went straight for the gold with all the gusto for that first time. Let’s do Katahdin, they said. It’ll be fun, they said. Well, let me be completely frank and honest…I never, ever, ever, EVER wanted to climb that mountain (or any like it) again after that initial time. I cried. Had a down and out righteous meltdown. I didn’t believe in myself for a long time after and didn’t know what my body could do with just a little bit of conditioning and strength training. Or the right pair of hiking boots (boots, not shoes). Or pack. Or trekking poles. Or GPS (you know, for mom’s peace of mind…and also to help me with the frustration of not knowing how much more elevation I have to slog on). The right gear makes the right hike.
But sometimes, even the stars become misaligned and the hiking gods/goddesses turn their backs on you for a few moments…and all that perfect, precious expensive gear can’t save you. And so you stumble. You cough. You heave. You sweat (if you stop sweating, that’s even worse). You become nauseated. You’re going to be violently ill if you don’t take one more break…two steps forward, one step back…you’re fading fast.
Technical term? You’re bonking.
That was me for the first time this past weekend. It was a weird feeling. I was psyched! I was pumped! But physically, I was a hot mess.
I’ve been doing some other hikes and crossing some really cool western Maine mountains off the list with my daughter this season. She’s away at camp for 3 weeks and I’m trying to keep myself distracted from missing her terribly! So somehow, I ended up convincing my sister and her boyfriend it would be fun to come along with me for their first 4000 footer. I can honestly say that I never in a million years thought my crazy sister would ever (and I mean EVER) come along on one of my insane adventures—but she joined me for an epic 6288’ adventure up Mount Washington for the Observatory’s Seek the Peak event this year. Mind you, this was a day where it was humid by 530 in the morning and had a heat advisory in effect as it was 90 degrees in the shade by mid-day. That should have been warning sign number one. But I set a do-able pace for us and we started out strong. The first mile flew by. Then the second. We stopped and had a nice break at the Gem Pool. But after that, I really started to fade. I had snacks. I drank water. But I just kept fading. I’d done the Ammo trail before and knew I could physically handle the final, steep push to the Appalachian Mountain Club’s Lakes of the Clouds hut, and I knew myself well enough to know I’d be fine if I just kept going—but slowly. I had promised Mom I’d take care of my sister and bring her down safely, after all. We refilled our water bottles at the hut, enjoyed the view of nothing on this cloudy day, and pushed onward toward the summit. We took a few short breaks on the way as the clouds would occasionally clear to allow for a brief view of the observatory towers in the distance. When we finally made it, the clouds cleared and we took our time at the summit, getting a chance to explore the observatory and then enjoy the breathtaking views of the Northern Presidentials on the way down to connect to the Jewell Trail. My energy that had been missing for the first part of the day miraculously appeared. Perhaps it was the stunning vista that had opened up as the clouds disappeared. Perhaps it was the carbs and soda I consumed at the summit (I have a new appreciation for that touristy snack shack). Whatever it was, the descent of a mountain has always been my strength and I was glad I was able to happily rock hop back to the car despite the rising temps.
Sometimes we have to just keep pushing through all of the yuck to get to the top. That whole saying about the best views coming after the hardest climb is the absolute truth…unless you’re climbing a mountain with nothing but a big pile of stones for a summit, no view, and an uneventful wooded walk back to your car (sorry not sorry, Hale). But you also have to be safe and have an awareness of yourself. You may find yourself struggling with some complicating factor on any given day. It’s okay to make the call to turn around, get some rest, and stay safe. Don’t let self-doubt or defeat bring you down. Those mountains aren’t going anywhere—they’ll still be there for you to climb another day.
But if you are feeling down, I have found that nothing helps to heal a defeated mind, heart, and soul more than the love and support of amazing family and friends. I’m fortunate that I have some of the best supports around and I really do love sharing my adventures with you all. So thank you for being there (past, present, future)! I look forward to bringing you all along with the other incredible, amazing adventures yet to come!
When your daughter demands to purchase a dinky 5 dollar 3 foot tree (if only to carry it up a mountain for your Christmas Eve hike)…well…you buy the darned thing and make that magic happen. So we did. And we hiked Gorham Mountain in Acadia National Park. Again. Because she wanted to. Not gonna lie, I enjoyed that she picked a more rolling hill of a mountain where I could drink a cup of coffee from the summit back to my car. We wanted to make memories this year for Christmas. This is the stuff I cherish as a single mom…raising a child to love and appreciate (and prefer to be in) Nature in a technology-always-in-your-face culture isn’t easy. But we’re doing it. I’d like to say that I’m currently crushing it. And I’m also loving every single second of it.
So…Merry Christmas! Happy holidays! Welcome to our blog! Look—I did a thing and finally bought myself a domain name! This has been something that’s been brewing for a long time…and it’s one of the Christmas presents I chose to give to myself this year. I love to write. I love to hike. I love a lot of things…but most of all I love my daughter to Gallifrey and back (yes, we’re both diehard Doctor Who fans).
About that domain name…it’s a play on one of the peaks of our home state’s gorgeous, stunning, and undeniably unique massif…Mount Katahdin.
Pamola Peak stands at 4902’ above sea level and is the official start of the 1.1 mile Knife Edge portion toward Baxter Peak, otherwise known as the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail. Pamola is also the God of Thunder and protector of Katahdin.
The page title is a combination of Pamola’s peaks and Pamola speaks. But it’s also my way of paying tribute to our home and the first 4000 footer I ever hiked. You never forget your first 4000 footer. I stepped off that mountain the first time I hiked it and swore I’d never, ever, ever (ever!) hike it again. But then I realized that this one mountain alone had ignited something deep within my soul and I found that I had fallen in love with that rocky, bouldery terrain. Needless to say, I’ve been back each year since that very first time. I even brought my 11 year old with me to the summit this last October…and now she’s hooked.
The content of this blog will be a mix of everything…from beginner to intermediate to expert to what the heck was I thinking categories. I’m no expert. But I do take a lot of pictures and like to talk about/share the experiences of what I do. I’m working on a few fun bucket lists as I begin this new interwebbing journey…so I’m sure I’ll have a lot to talk about as I go along.
So sit back. Enjoy the show. Hopefully I’ll keep up with this and won’t disappoint!
Merriest of the Festivus and Happy New Year from our home to yours!!! Here’s to an exciting new journey for us all!
An empty Sand Beach at Acadia National Park, 12/24/2018
