Category: NH Hiking

Let me tell you a story about the woman in this picture: She didn’t have a clue what she was doing. The boots were your typical bulky, insulated winter boots from an outdoor retail company. The gaiters were twelve bucks from a chain discount supply store. The pants were purchased at another outdoor retail company’s outlet stores for dirt cheap. They were lightly lined so she added a pair of fleece lined tights from the aforementioned discount supply store underneath that lightly lined layer.

She also had about 3 of everything in that 50 liter pack. It was heavy. And she couldn’t understand why it was taking so long to move such a small distance up the mountain. (Those first few solo hikes in winter are the primary reason I splurged on that fancy GPS I now carry.) 

But oh, she had never felt what she felt stirring at that very moment as she entered the Alpine Zone in Winter and gazed upon the Presidential Range from 4000 feet in the air for the first time in her life. She was recharged…renewed…she felt more alive than ever before. She cried tears of disbelief that she had accomplished so much without even knowing exactly what she had gotten into.

But she knew from that moment on that this was going to be an ongoing occurrence in her life. She wouldn’t stop until her goal was met. 

But what is that goal exactly? Is it tagging the highest peaks in New England? Is it the Long Trail? Returning out west to explore Washington or the PCT or the JMT? Or is it the 52 with a view in New Hampshire? 

It’s all of the above.

And it starts with a little bit of self care…

I had planned a self care mini vacation this February. I had started this planning over a month and a half before I left as a way to give me something to look forward to. I failed to do so last year at this time of year and quickly approached burnout. I promised myself I would pay attention to that feeling and never have that happen again. Between work, volunteering, and all other aspects of my life, I am extremely active in lots of different, awesome groups and events and I love every minute of what I do. I’m single parenting a tweenager that I love dearly and some of those days are indeed harder than others as I struggle with letting her learn and grow independently. But it is imperative to take time for ourselves so we can take care of others…and I am finally practicing what I preach. ❤️

Day 1: Mount Willard

“There’s a wicked stawm comin’ so I think I’ll drive to where it’s gonna get hammahd with snow bub.” Said no one ever…except for this crazy woman right here! And there I found myself. In Crawford Notch, NH. Where it was getting hammahd with snow (and as my parents were on their way to Hawaii without me!). 

I have been planning on adding yet another list (I know, I know, ANOTHER one?!?!), so I elected to hit up the “52 with a view” Mount Willard. There obviously wasn’t a view…who the h*ll climbs mountains in a snowstorm?! Oh, that’s right, me. It was too windy for the higher summits (and I’ve already tagged all those ones around Crawford Notch anyway). As of that moment, I’ve had the Pemi to my left and the Prezis to my right. With WTF in the middle (literally—Willey, Tom, and Field). And yes, when I did all three of them in one day, I did say WTF! Several times! 🤣

I broke my own trail all the way up after a delicious breakfast at the Highland Center, which was good because it was workout city in a storm—phew! I found my tracks were covered with fresh snow by the time I got down to the base of the mountain. The snow covering the trees made it wicked hard to see the trail markers at times. My hair was an icicle by the end, but my clothes stayed dry. It really does pay to have the right gear. 

Speaking of gear, I really (really really REALLY) love my new mountaineering snowshoes. Like I am gaga in love with them. 😍 It’s as though you’re not even wearing them at all with these new bindings! And…let me just tell you all about those televators on steep sections. Like a dream. So dreamy. 

Day 2: Mount Avalon

Today was a much more picture worthy day—went up the wicked steep Avalon trail and sure was grateful for those heel televators on my snowshoes!

The nice thing about winter hiking is that the snow covers all the god awful (I mean beautiful, giant, magnificent) rocks one has to scramble and climb over to get to the summit. It also allows one to butt slide down the wicked steep parts, which I totally did and went “weeeeeeeee” like a kid on a National Lampoon greased up sled. Mind you, the first time I butt slid it was totally on accident because I fell on my ass and decided that since I was already down there, I might as well just let go and enjoy the ride. And so I did. And then did it about 4 other times coming down the Avalon trail. 

You can’t do that in the summer down those rocks!!! And you can’t do that on a cruise ship traveling to Hawaii, mom and dad! 🤣

It was a beautifully bittersweet day to hit the 100 miles on my Taji Challenge as well. Now I guess it’s back to just the Run the Year for me (like that isn’t enough!)! 🏃🏼‍♀️ 

Did I forget to mention the highlight of using my ice axe to chisel out my car after the storm yesterday? I do believe I provided at least some form of quality entertainment to the staff and guests of the AMC Highland Center during that adventure. (I’m from Maine and I’m a Girl Scout—I know how to use my resources wisely!)

Back home tomorrow night to return for the start of many obligations in the months to come as well as to see that awesome kid of mine that I miss so much. But while I’m here, I plan to get the most out of it and do the Around the Lake trail (Ammonoosuc Lake) in the morning. And I think I’m going to stop in North Conway to shop because after all that running I’ve been doing, my pants don’t fit anymore. 🤣

Happy Trails all. Cheers!

Addendum: The above was the original post that I had intended to publish not long after I had returned home late February/early March 2020…and then everything went by the wayside as COVID-19 hit. (And it hit fast!) With that in mind, I still stand by the need for self-care—we need it now more than anything. Take care of yourselves. Be well. Keep on keeping on…and keep on hiking! ❤️

At an average of 33 miles, 9000 plus feet elevation gain, up to 12 4000 footers in one go, and ranked by Backpacker magazine as the second hardest day hike in America, I headed for New Hampshire’s Pemigewasset Wilderness the week before Labor Day on what is famously called the “Pemi Loop.” I booked two Appalachian Mountain Club huts well in advance (hey, I’m all for paying for the cool AMC Croo to cook and sing to me!) and crossed my fingers that Karma would take care of the weather for this adventure of a lifetime. 

Karma pulled through like never before. 

Maybe it was the thru hikers I picked up along 93 and dropped off in Lincoln at a local outfitter the night before my trek. We jammed out to Phish and I told them to keep the gas money they offered for themselves for a well deserved beer at the local burger joint. They said Karma and the hiking gods were sure to smile upon us as they, too, would be crossing the ridge in the morning. Whatever it was…it worked. 

Day One: Lincoln Woods to Greenleaf Hut—11.7 miles

I didn’t want to get up. It was still raining as I pulled the covers up over my head in my cheap, cozy hotel bed. I decided to take my time getting ready (with the intention of being at the trailhead by sunrise). At the trailhead, I signed in as an overnight hiker and started my journey. Well…until I remembered that I had left my bear spray on the hood of my car. So I turned around, snagged it, and clipped it to my pack. And then I was off. For real this time. 

The initial stretch of Lincoln Woods was flat and spooky in the early hours of the morning. Once I reached the Osseo trail, it was 4 miles of up. Steady, moderate, monotonous, rocky, and rock stair/wooden ladder-laden-up. It’s honestly a gentle beast with one heck of a premonition of what is to come for the remainder of this voyage—rocks. Lots and lots of rocks. 

I was overjoyed to reach the summit of Flume. I was denied this summit a few years ago as there were thunderstorms moving in as I crested Liberty (with the intention of snagging Flume that day). Today was about redemption and moving forward with my goal of tagging each and every single 4000 footer in New England. As I tagged this summit and continued on my journey up and over Liberty and Little Haystack, I smiled. The rest of today (5000 footers Lincoln and Lafayette) was smooth sailing as I had just completed the hardest stretch—gaining 3100 feet of elevation in one go—and I made sure to take my time to stop and enjoy the view as I traversed the infamous Franconia Ridge. It was all downhill from here…at least until Greenleaf Hut and the ascent of Lafayette for the second time in less than 24 hours the next morning…

Day Two: Greenleaf Hut to Galehead Hut—8.5 miles

After a delicious breakfast at Greenleaf Hut of oatmeal with chocolate chips, eggs, sausage, cornbread, and coffee, it was time to climb an extra 1000 feet to Lafayette’s summit, where I would connect to the Garfield Ridge Trail for today’s short in mileage (but incredibly long with ups and downs) adventure. There were beautiful blue skies as I descended Lafayette to the col that would take me to Garfield’s summit. This was quite the pleasant ridge walk, scattered with rocks and an exciting boulder scramble or two. Once the descent of Garfield begins, you’ll have to climb down a portion of wet rocks, as a stream flows down the trail here. Use caution—the rocks can get quite slippery. This is also when I recalled the warnings that even though the Garfield Ridge Trail looks pretty benign on paper, don’t let that fool you. Those little speed bumps on paper are actually rock-laden up and down and up and down and up and down periods of climbing…and just when you think you’re done and leveling out…you go up and down some more! I didn’t realize there were that many rocks in New Hampshire! Along the way, be sure to stop at the Garfield Campsite for water! If you’re not staying at the huts, this is also an excellent site!  

When I reached the Galehead Hut, there was a drawing of a person climbing with a caption “so…many…rocks!” I stopped and laughed maniacally…I think this is when I realized one has to be insane to do a Pemi Loop.

I dropped my pack and headed to tag the summit of Galehead before dinner, which is a half mile tops from the hut. This was my first time slack packing…and it felt weird. In fact, I slipped and fell for the one and only time on this hike on this trail. I think my body didn’t know what the heck to do without the pack! Ha! This puts me officially at halfway on the New Hampshire 48 4000 footers list! I got to sit and enjoy dinner with fellow peak baggers, Pemi loopers, and got to chat with some really cool thru hikers (past and present)! 

Day 3: Galehead Hut to Lincoln Woods—16.5 miles

Today was the biggest mileage day and the one with the peaks that I was most excited for. I was also incredibly anxious over South Twin’s roughly 1100 feet elevation gain in just 0.8 miles right out of the gate. But as I lay in bed awaiting the 630 wake up from the Croo, I made the executive decision to go ahead and add North Twin to my list. I wasn’t worried about time as I had a headlamp, flashlight, and no time commitment to get back to my car. Thankfully breakfast was delicious, as I didn’t have much of an appetite due to my nerves for this allegedly horrific ascent. 

I took my time packing my belongings and treated the blister that had developed on my heel on day one (I blame all the up and down rocks, as I’ve had good luck with blisters before). I set out slow and steady. The ascent was not what I thought it would be. In fact, I waited for the really hard steep parts I had been warned about. I didn’t see them. I was able to get my short little blister-laden self up and over the rocks with ease. I let people pass me as I was slightly hindered by my foot and wanted to keep some energy for the long day ahead, but I kept climbing nonetheless. Thanks, Katahdin, for preparing me for any and all steep ascents! 

South Twin was very busy with traffic this morning so I dumped my pack to slackpack for the second time over to North Twin. This was one of my favorite trails and I am so glad I added this side trip (2.6 miles round trip)—while the summit of North Twin is less than incredible as it is wooded, the Twinway trail is truly a delight with the lush green forest surrounding you. 

I hustled back to South Twin, snagged my pack, and headed along the Appalachian Trail for 2 miles toward the Bondcliff trail. This portion of the trail was a rest for the legs, as some parts are flatter walking with minimal rocks or boulders. Don’t get me wrong…there’s still lots of rocks. Lots and lots of rocks. At the Bondcliff connector, you can choose to head toward Zealand to tag another summit. I’m opting to combine this with another hut stay in the future, so I passed by the trail today. Once I connected to Bondcliff, the trail brought me up and over South Guyot (which doesn’t count but it was a beautiful open area nonetheless). 

From here, I walked an easy 0.8 miles to West Bond’s connector. Once again, I dropped my pack and made the easy mile round trip excursion to snag another summit. This side trip is definitely worth it—there was a full 360 degree view of the Pemi Loop I had completed thus far…and a stunning view of where I was headed. I continued on to Bond, where the half mile walk from West Bond’s connector seemed like the easiest, gradual ascent of the entire trek. I was giddy with excitement with what was to come and was even able to snag some cell service to post to social media that I was on Bond…Mount Bond. Saw some gray jays but declined to feed them. (Leave No Trace, kids. Don’t feed the animals.)

The approach from Bond to Bondcliff was unbelievable and unforgettable. This part of the journey was the ultimate pilgrimage of my lifetime so far. Each step taken from day one had been bringing me to here…Bondcliff. This was the end game and ultimate goal of choosing to do a clockwise Pemi Loop. The views from this trail and the views from the summit are nothing short of spectacular. The winds were slightly chilly and gusting at around 45-50 miles per hour as I stood on the infamous cliff, but the only thing taking my breath away that day was the revelation that I had just crushed a goal I had been dreaming about for the last 4 years. 

As I made my way slowly away from the summit, I turned and took one final look back across the Pemigewasset Wilderness and smiled. But this wasn’t just any smile. This was one that radiated from the inside out—straight from my soul. This is what it truly means to be happy.

The 6.2 miles on Bondcliff felt like an eternity. I brought headphones for this portion of the trek (which is something I never do…but I’m glad I did)—I may have done some trail running with a 25 pound pack for 5 of those miles. As I crossed the bridge before the final 2.6 miles on the Lincoln Woods Trail, I stopped, looked out at the view of the water, had a song hit my headphones that will forever resonate within my heart…and I cried. It finally hit me. I had just completed an incredibly wickedly wild adventure…around 11,000 feet total elevation gained, 12 4000 footers, 36.7 miles, 3 days, solo, all while carrying a pack weighing 25/30 pounds depending on amount of water. This definitely wasn’t an easy thing to do…but I did it! I had actually done it! And I can’t wait for the next adventures to come. 

To all of the amazing people I met along this journey, I wish you all well on the path of life—and whatever wonderful direction it may take you! 

You never forget your first 4000 footer.

I’ve been dreaming of the White Mountains ever since vacationing in New Hampshire as a kid with my bratty younger sister next to me. We drove through the Notches and looked up in wonder at the Old Man in the Mountain from the backseat of our beast of a 1980 Bonneville (which I also happened to learn to drive in!). Well, that look of wonder magically turned to longing and wanderlust in my adult years and has brought me to who I am today chasing summits…and pursuing each of the 67 New England 4000 footers.

This last month marked the anniversary date of the first time I climbed Katahdin…my first official 4000 footer. Go big or go home, right? Well, I guess I went straight for the gold with all the gusto for that first time. Let’s do Katahdin, they said. It’ll be fun, they said. Well, let me be completely frank and honest…I never, ever, ever, EVER wanted to climb that mountain (or any like it) again after that initial time. I cried. Had a down and out righteous meltdown. I didn’t believe in myself for a long time after and didn’t know what my body could do with just a little bit of conditioning and strength training. Or the right pair of hiking boots (boots, not shoes). Or pack. Or trekking poles. Or GPS (you know, for mom’s peace of mind…and also to help me with the frustration of not knowing how much more elevation I have to slog on). The right gear makes the right hike.

But sometimes, even the stars become misaligned and the hiking gods/goddesses turn their backs on you for a few moments…and all that perfect, precious expensive gear can’t save you. And so you stumble. You cough. You heave. You sweat (if you stop sweating, that’s even worse). You become nauseated. You’re going to be violently ill if you don’t take one more break…two steps forward, one step back…you’re fading fast.

Technical term? You’re bonking.

That was me for the first time this past weekend. It was a weird feeling. I was psyched! I was pumped! But physically, I was a hot mess.

I’ve been doing some other hikes and crossing some really cool western Maine mountains off the list with my daughter this season. She’s away at camp for 3 weeks and I’m trying to keep myself distracted from missing her terribly! So somehow, I ended up convincing my sister and her boyfriend it would be fun to come along with me for their first 4000 footer. I can honestly say that I never in a million years thought my crazy sister would ever (and I mean EVER) come along on one of my insane adventures—but she joined me for an epic 6288’ adventure up Mount Washington for the Observatory’s Seek the Peak event this year. Mind you, this was a day where it was humid by 530 in the morning and had a heat advisory in effect as it was 90 degrees in the shade by mid-day. That should have been warning sign number one. But I set a do-able pace for us and we started out strong. The first mile flew by. Then the second. We stopped and had a nice break at the Gem Pool. But after that, I really started to fade. I had snacks. I drank water. But I just kept fading. I’d done the Ammo trail before and knew I could physically handle the final, steep push to the Appalachian Mountain Club’s Lakes of the Clouds hut, and I knew myself well enough to know I’d be fine if I just kept going—but slowly. I had promised Mom I’d take care of my sister and bring her down safely, after all. We refilled our water bottles at the hut, enjoyed the view of nothing on this cloudy day, and pushed onward toward the summit. We took a few short breaks on the way as the clouds would occasionally clear to allow for a brief view of the observatory towers in the distance. When we finally made it, the clouds cleared and we took our time at the summit, getting a chance to explore the observatory and then enjoy the breathtaking views of the Northern Presidentials on the way down to connect to the Jewell Trail. My energy that had been missing for the first part of the day miraculously appeared. Perhaps it was the stunning vista that had opened up as the clouds disappeared. Perhaps it was the carbs and soda I consumed at the summit (I have a new appreciation for that touristy snack shack). Whatever it was, the descent of a mountain has always been my strength and I was glad I was able to happily rock hop back to the car despite the rising temps.

Sometimes we have to just keep pushing through all of the yuck to get to the top. That whole saying about the best views coming after the hardest climb is the absolute truth…unless you’re climbing a mountain with nothing but a big pile of stones for a summit, no view, and an uneventful wooded walk back to your car (sorry not sorry, Hale). But you also have to be safe and have an awareness of yourself. You may find yourself struggling with some complicating factor on any given day. It’s okay to make the call to turn around, get some rest, and stay safe. Don’t let self-doubt or defeat bring you down. Those mountains aren’t going anywhere—they’ll still be there for you to climb another day.

But if you are feeling down, I have found that nothing helps to heal a defeated mind, heart, and soul more than the love and support of amazing family and friends. I’m fortunate that I have some of the best supports around and I really do love sharing my adventures with you all. So thank you for being there (past, present, future)! I look forward to bringing you all along with the other incredible, amazing adventures yet to come!

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